With a spare week after heading to Kiribati, and brimming bucket list of species to catch, I headed to the east cape of Baja, Mexico to encounter a well known fly fishing adversary, the roosterfish. Teamed up with local guide, Josh Martz of Pursuit Anglers, we spent five days exploring the lower eastern cape in the hunt for the ultimate prize, a grande on fly from the beach.
With rare cloud cover present, as predicted by the weather forecast we decided to fish the day from a panga which would hopefully overcome the visually limiting conditions. The skipper picked Josh and I up from the beach behind the house and we cruised south for a considerable time. We past empty beach after beach scattered with the occasional casa grande.
South of the marine park we pulled up at bay with some sporadic surface activity, most likely skipjacks. We spent a short amount of time waiting and hoping for them to appear close enough to the boat for me to put a fly in front of them, but never quite got a shot. We moved in shore to look for roosterfish and cast around some rocks and reef. I had a nip from a solid orange fish, probably a snapper, but didn’t hook up. We continued cruising the shallows but we weren’t seeing much and before long the wind began to pick up, blowing hard on shore. Josh made the call to change the game plan and drop some flies deep into some reef. About a dozen casts in I felt weight and kept stripping. I could see the silver of the fish in the water but it looked a hell of a lot bigger than I expected judging but the weight. As it got closer we realised it was two triggerfish, the one I hooked and another trying to eat the fly out of his mouth. Landing the triggerfish was a great moment as I had just spent almost three full days trying to get one on the flats of Christmas Island only to ultimately fall short.
The wind continued to rise and it wasn’t long before we moved from the reef to find some more shelter waters in and around protected points and the local harbour. Plenty of casts into this structure for not much action, until I hooked into what we agreed was a snook that I fought all the way to the side of the boat before the hook pulled. Tough going. We fished the rest of the protected water hard but didn’t get anymore pulls. With the wind continuing to gain speed we pulled up stumps and headed for home.
The weather had improved with mixed clear skies and high scattered cloud which was good enough for us to load up the ATV and head down the beach to hopefully sight some roosters.
Perched up we waited, constantly scanning the water as far along the beach and as deep as we could see. It took a couple of hours, but once the sun got high in the sky the water lit up. Not long after that we spotted our first fish cruising. We planned the intercept but things didn’t work out. Fish were few and far between for the next few hours, until Josh noticed some birds hovering on the drop off to deeper water, always a good sign. Sure enough within a couple of minutes the beach was stormed but some big roosters. One even half beached itself chasing mullet about five metres away from where we were standing. A sight I’ll never forget. Unfortunately I had just been casting at another fish just to my left and took too long to notice, then put a dodgy cast out with the line still caught around my foot. I definitely learnt a few lessons from my first day chasing roosters from the beach. After that 15 minutes of mayhem the beach went fairly quiet again and so we left to check some other spots but were hindered but another afternoon ‘breeze’.
The weather was predicted to be cloudy again but we were keen to spend some more time fishing from the beach, so Josh came up with a plan to head north for a bit of a drive in the truck to hopefully find some clearer skies and fish. The drive from Los Barriles north took us through the Sierra de la Giganta which is amazing country, littered with 100 year old cacti, dry sandy river beds and mountains with ancient indian walls. The cloud was patchy up here but at least it wasn’t raining and as thick as it was back down south. We pulled up at a beach near La Ventana and rigged up. Josh worked the water with a hookless popper on a spin rod, while I waited to bang the fly in at any sign of a follow. After walking the length of the first beach we still hadn’t seen a fish.
Just as we were about to head back to the truck a few baitfish skipped and a dorado slammed into towards the shore getting semi wedged in the shallows in the process. It all happened in the blink of an eye, but it prompted a fly change as we began searching for any more signs of dorado cruising.
We headed north again to another beach and repeated the process. Almost the same thing happened, first no roosters then suddenly a wave of dorado. I was ready this time and second cast at the fish a dorado turned and nailed the fly. The set was solid, real solid I thought, yet three jumps later the line was slack. Devo. The opportunities to catch a dorado from the beach on fly are very rare and I’d just blown a couple of prime chances. We continued walking the beach, up and back, and didn’t see anything. We were almost back in the truck in the same spot as before when few baitfish jumped 20ft from our feet on the shore. Two false casts and the fly was there. The dorado lit up straight away and inhaled it. The hook set tight again. I don’t think I took a breath for the next few minutes as the fish charged towards the deeper water repeatedly getting airborne. But this time the tides had turned, the fish was beached and we got some snaps with the colours still in their prime.
The pressure was off, after a few high fives and a cold beer we resumed our posts waiting for more fish to turn up. The clouds were slowly stifling the direct sunlight, but we did spot a couple more fish, including one that was surfing in the crest of a wave to sneak up on a school of bait.
Day 4 saw the arrival of world traveller and fisherman June from Japan at the lodge. With some clear skies (finally!) the three of us loaded up the ATV and hit the beaches to hunt down a grande. The visibility was good and we didn’t drive far before we saw some small fis that looked to be a mix of small rooster fish and jack crevalle, herding bait along a beach. We got the bonefish flies out and spent half an hour casting but things slowed down pretty quick and we couldn’t get a hook up. We pushed on, found a prime spot and perched up waiting for some fish to appear. It was slow for the first hour or two, then they came. We scrambled for each fish, waiting hoping they would come into range. We got a couple of shots including to a pair of fish that fought over and around my fly without eating it. Most of the roosters we did see were big, real big, with some up towards 70 pounds. Unfortunately we couldn’t get an eat before it was time to head back to the lodge.
On the way back we found a school of pompano eating bait on a beach, so after a quick rod switch back to the bonefish fly I hooked up to one of the feisty little fish followed by a small jack crevalle.
Last of the trip and the pressure was on to land a grande. Josh and I headed south and hit the beaches. Almost as soon as we arrived on the sand and bust up of small roosters exploded 30 metres along the shore. I grabbed the rod and ran but only got there as it was ending. No dice. We headed further up the beach and staked a spot on the beach and waited. The action for the morning was slow, we found a snook on the shore which vanished before we even cast.
Late in the afternoon birds appeared on the edge of the deeper water and sure enough within minutes big roosters stormed the beach. The action was frantic for what must have been close to 10 minutes, with a handful of fish getting a good look at the fly but not taking it. During a momentary lull in sighted fish Josh changed my fly to a white popper and soon after another fish appeared. I cast and he followed and had a good look before pealing off the pursuit. I think its safe to say Josh and I were both shattered at this point in time, having had so many shots at big roosters, with nothing to show for it. Still the action was intense and my respect and admiration for these shallow water brutes had grown considerably. I will be back to get my grande.
If you are considering a trip to Baja to chase roosterfish check out Pursuit Anglers and get in touch with Josh.